HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT SOURCING YOUR MATERIAL? DO YOU GO KNOCKING DOWN PUB DOORS? FACEBOOK MARKETPLACE? CAR-BOOT SALES? HAS THIS PROCESS CHANGED AT ALL SINCE YOU FIRST STARTED?
I used to spend a lot of time at boot sales, markets, etcetera. That was pretty much the whole design process. I then began sourcing on eBay, Facebook Marketplace, Etsy, Vinted, which sped up the process and helped me find quantities of these materials. As I get busier, this is pretty much the process now. If I travel, I make sure to hit up the markets and charity shops – and it’s my favourite part of the job. I am trying to make sure I remember how integral the shopping is to the job and not feel guilty for not being at the studio. Research is work, as is fabric shopping.
SPEAKING OF PUBS, WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE LOCALS? ARE YOU CONSTANTLY LOOKING AT TEXTILES WHILE YOU’RE THERE, OR ARE YOU ABLE TO SWITCH OFF?
I love pubs. I would say the top three are Blue Posts on Berwick St, Coach & Horses, which is also in Soho, and The Ship in Fitzrovia. You can’t beat a central London pub. The pub is where I get all my ideas. I love going for a pint alone, taking in my surroundings, observing characters. The ideas just come to me.
DOES THE MATERIAL DICTATE THE DESIGN, OR DOES THE DESIGN DICTATE THE MATERIAL?
I say the material dictates the design, totally, but I obviously have a taste in materials that I have honed over the years, so I look out for specific things. But yes, ultimately, the dimensions of the material dictate what I can make out of it. I can never really sit down and sketch, as I used to, and then find the material. The choice of fabric, which is usually vibrant and perhaps garish, does mean I make simpler classic garments, which allows the fabrication to speak for itself.
IS THERE A MATERIAL OR AN OBJECT YOU DREAM OF WORKING WITH ONE DAY?
I am always trying to work with sheepskin, which is the most Welsh of materials. I just feel like I should, so it’s just about trying to fit it into my world and figure out how I could use it.
HAVE YOUR OWN VIEWS ON GENDER NORMS OR MASCULINITY CHANGED SINCE YOU LAUNCHED YOUR BRAND?
100%. It’s always changing and developing; I find it so exciting to see my clothes on different people. It can surprise me, and it definitely excites me. It also informs the way I design and especially casting models. I find it most thrilling to dress traditionally ‘male’ bodies in more feminine shapes or styles, and I like to make ‘female’ bodies more masculine. It’s about challenging the gender norms. Especially in fashion, I think it’s important we do it.
WHAT’S IT LIKE SEEING YOUR WORK PASTED IN THE STREETS?
It is very exciting to see clothes I have made by hand, shot and then shown in the streets. The posters bring fresh eyes to my work, and I love the punk nature of flyposting. I think it fits perfectly with my ethos. I love the physicality of a poster on the street in this increasingly digital age. I can’t wait to see the wear and tear, the torn edges, or have them graffitied over.
WHEN YOU SEE PEOPLE WEARING YOUR PIECES, ESPECIALLY THOSE BUILT FROM SUCH LOCAL MATERIALS, HOW DOES THAT MAKE YOU FEEL? DOES THE MEANING OF THE MATERIAL CHANGE ONCE IT’S OUT IN THE WORLD?
I feel immense pride seeing people wearing something I have made. The fact that someone would be happy to part with their hard-earned cash to buy one of my pieces, especially today, means the world to me. It’s also fun to see people out wearing something that maybe I have found the material for just around the corner at a market stall, but now it’s wrapped around someone’s body and has a new life to live.
AND FINALLY, WHAT IS NEXT FOR ADAM JONES?
I am looking forward to collaborating with others, hopefully introducing some more categories into my collections. I would love to do denim, shoes and bags, and continue to pay my rent and have a few pints from selling clothes I have made. Nothing makes me happier.